Holly Heywood enjoys an evening in a city centre highspot.
Dining at The Ivy provides a rare balance of experiences: feeling cosseted and spoiled while feeling comfortable and at ease. We were invited to enjoy the Editions menu at their Birmingham restaurant. While we were guests of The Ivy, opinions are, as always, our own.
Arriving on a warm Wednesday evening, we were immediately settled into a plush corner table and piled with water. The decor is, rather like the overall ambience, a balance of exotic and easy on the eye, featuring painted birds, gilded lanterns, mirrors and a reminder of your destination via the ivy-covered napkins. It feels – in Summer weather too – as though you might have entered a portal to a tropical destination.
From the Heritage menu, we chose starters of a truffled cheese souffle and Heritage tomatoes. The souffle arrived in a warm waft of truffle, oozing beautifully while light as a cloud. The tomatoes demonstrated an impeccable pedigree full of varied tastes, colours and degrees of sweetness. The watermelon worked to add texture as did the pistachios, while the plant-based cheese was a revelation: creamy, subtle and delicious.
If you have been lulled into boredom by an array of breaded chicken dishes, let The Ivy wake you up from your ennui with their brioche-crumbed chicken escalope. Simultaneously crisp and succulent, flavours were well balanced with the tang of capers, a citrus creme fraiche and shaved Gran Padano. Aged Teys sirloin steak was cooked – as you would expect – impeccably, and accompanied by a thick, grainy mustard sauce.
Sides, including triple-cooked chips, spinach and tenderstem broccoli with lemon zest, were generous and perfectly balanced. There was room – just – to indulge in dessert. The rhubarb sorbet was creamy, smooth and not too sweet. The pistachio and chocolate profiteroles were light and delicious and very generous in their size. If you ever had those choux buns referred to as “elephants’ feet” when you were a child, this is the time to reconnect with your inner indulgent younger self.
Throughout, service was attentive, warm and careful. There was a gentle buzz in the room, mostly from couples dining but also some groups. One group was seated at nine, making this a brilliant option if you prefer to dine late. I would feel happy and comfortable dining here alone if the occasion arose. Food allergies in our party were quickly and confidently addressed, with checks being made on each item, and a QR allergen matrix available.
It is good to see such a well-established restaurant busy and maintaining its impeccable standards. As Birmingham’s food scene continues to flourish, The Ivy is holding its own as a place for well-considered menus in a convivial environment.
