The new Grand is frankly splendid, with marbled halls, a quiet yet friendly vibe and a new restaurant in Isaac’s, where we found ourselves for Sunday lunch. Isaac’s is on the lower level, beautifully tiled throughout rather like Edinburgh’s celebrated Cafe Royal. Everything gleamed, booths were stuffed with cushions, and the whole atmosphere celebrates comfort and charm. This attracted a very varied clientele from families to couples and solo diners, all seeming totally at ease. Lunch was accompanied by a pianist who played fluently and flawlessly through his first 90 minute set covering everything from classical to modern.

So what’s on the menu? Starters included calamari, smoked salmon, a pea, mint and courgette soup, or sharing plates such as a charcuterie board or baked camembert. I chose a terrine of avocado, dense and delicately flavoured, topped with heirloom tomatoes and a balsamic dressing.

The terrine was light yet substantial, and the tomatoes were clearly grown and sourced by people who know what they are doing; flavours sang out from every bite.

My dining companion chose the Caesar salad. It arrived in a flurry of textures, aromas and tastes. All the usual ingredients were there, but this is a Caesar designed for the discerning emperor: crisp lettuce, pentiful anchovies and crunchy croutons plus a generous topping of dressing and cheese.

As we were dining on Sunday lunchtime, we headed for the Sunday Roast section of the menu. Meat is sourced from the renowned butcher Aubrey Allen, so we can again recognise the quality of the ingredients.

My dining companion chose the confit belly of Tamworth pork. If you like crackling and succulent meat, this is definitely the choice for you. I heard to my side a plaintive murmur: “How long before I can have this again?”. My 28 day aged sirloin of beef was tender. delicately pink at its centre and served with a red wine gravy, with additional gravy brought to the table. There were braised beef stuffed Yorkshire puddings and beef fat roast potatoes, plus parsnips, carrots and tenderstem. It was, in short, magnificent.

Not ready for a roast? We were also tempted by the corn-fed chicken served with Lyonnaise potato and sweetcorn puree. The sea bass and king scallops also caught our attention, this time served with parmentier potatoes, pea puree and sauce vierge.

Service throughout was relaxed but attentive, leaving us long enough to achieve an appetite for dessert. We chose a raspberry mille-feuille served with raspberry sorbet, and cherry opera with Griottines cherries. Both were absolutely bursting with fruit flavours. As cherries are my favourite fruit, I loved that there were so many cherry components in the opera from Griottines cherries to the sorbet to Maraschino cherries on top.

If you have food allergies or intolerances, you will be well supported here. The menu is labelled and there is a further matrix to check. Staff were very aware of the ingredients in each dish. It may just be me, but it is also lovely to have a dessert that is not simply the normal small scoop of sorbet. To have the cherry opera in all its glory is a rare and memorable treat.