The vibe in Riva Blu manages to be both chilled and sociable, which is no small feat to accomplish. Two birthday celebrations were happily underway as we arrived, yet the enveloping booth in soothing maritime blue allowed us to feel part of the crowd while enjoying privacy.

We started with herby and succulent olives, which awakened our appetites for what was to come. Until our visit, I had thought Scarpetta was the heroine of a series of detective fiction. At Riva Blu, I discovered it to be a classic Mediterranean confection of tomatoes, garlic and basil, served with a large flatbread for dipping. And these were spectacular tomatoes, blessed with sun on their skins and an abundance of flavour. As for the bread? Good bread can be criminally undervalued, and this was incredible.

Bruschetta gamberoni were quickly devoured by my dining companion. Succulent prawns with a hint of chilli supported by crunchy ciabatta revitalised the concept of this classic dish, and matched well with a crisp glass of Grillo Serenata. The drinks menu is focused on south Mediterranean choices, alongside cocktails, mocktails and the refreshing inclusion of some low alcohol choices.

My main course of tuna was an emperor of the sea, cooked exactly to my request and served with another gallery of sweet tomatoes, capers and olives. Sides of patate al forno with rosemary and garlic (recommended to me) and a flavourful house salad made this a delicious choice. My companion opted for linguine fruiti del mare, a stunning composition of crustaceans with a white wine, chilli and tomato sauce. As he worked his way through the mountain of seafood, I was pleased to note an uncharacteristic quiet, punctuated by murmurs of delight and the clatter of shells. He had clearly ascended to a seafood paradise.

Dessert involved some tableside theatre in the preparation of a lemon tiramisu speciality. It vanished rather swiftly alongside limoncello. Lemon sorbet was rich and beautifully sharp with peel.

Food allergies or intolerances? You can feel safe here. Our gluten- and dairy-free diner had many menu choices available, including all pasta dishes. The Scarpetta bread (baked with oil, garlic and parsley) was frankly the best bread eaten since becoming intolerant a decade ago and was also considered memorably good by the non-allergic member of the duo. Questions on ingredients were answered fully and with empathy by the dining team. It was heartwarming to be treated with such care and consideration and to relax and enjoy the dining experience. You’ll find a non gluten-containing menu, plus vegan and vegetarian choices available.

We met many of the staff team during our visit. The timely, personable and warm service extended across the tables, and struck a great balance in managing conversation gaps between courses while not creating delays in service. One small thing really sums up the importance of customers here; the baby change area was stocked with everything a parent might need, but have forgotten to pack. That caring and thoughtful attitude extends throughout the restaurant. We’ll be back.